LOCAL BOULDERING BLOG ARTICLE

Awesome blog post from our good friends at Black Hills and Badlands Tourism Association

Check it out and then go check out all the cool photos and stories on their website!

Special Thanks to Alicia!

 

How to Get a Grip on Black Hills Bouldering

The Canyon Always Provides

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Jami Coin attempts one of the many hard contrived project

Over the years I have heard a rumor that there was some good bouldering to be done in Spearfish Canyon. As with most climbers the information was unreliable and I wasn’t about to go hike out to find nothing. I spaced it off and continued on with other areas. Fast forward present day, I stumbled across some photos on social media. What I saw blew my mind away. Was this even the same canyon? The quality didn’t look like typical limestone boulders you come across in the Hills. I contacted a few of the developers for a tour. After finding where to park and the path it is a simple up hill hike that takes about 5-10 minutes till you hit the boulders and they are everywhere!

I quickly find the crew in a beautiful surreal field of stacked limestone boulders all good quality. Projects everywhere and lots of established problems going in daily. We start on a couple of warm ups that in my opinion were all 3 star with great quality stone. This place has everything from short easy-hard problems to highball easy-hard problems and projects. We check out some of the projects. They are all amazing and with a little work will get sent soon adding new classics to the Hills. Like they say,” the Canyon Always Provides.” More coming soon…..

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John Andersen warms up on a fun tall V2
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Mikel Cronin crimps hard and eyes the next crimp on this beautiful crimp ladder project.
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John Andersen Pulls the hard first 2 moves of this steep slopey line.’

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American Outlaw Boulders

Confirmation Report:

I have been out to the American Outlaw boulders a handful of times now. Mainly due to its close proximity to my work place. It offers good quality rock with about 15 established problems. Luke Kretchmar and Heath Lille first found and developed the area. 2 future projects exist that are of high quality and should NOT be overlooked. Double digits for sure on one possibly both. The hardest problem established is the Stand Start for Tessarete V8/9? One of the more pure lines in the are. This problem will offer a great pump to even the seasoned climber. The SDS to this problem is very obvious and will make it one of the hardest and classic arêtes in the Hills. This problems are nice because they are roadside and take less than 2 minutes to get to. Great flat bare landings and some highball potential make this a place any climber in the area should visit once. MINI Guide is in the works and will be added in the coming days.

CRASH PADS FOR SALE AND LOST AND FOUND

FOR SALE: RAPID CITY, BLACK HILLS, WYOMING, COLORADO AREA:

TWO REALLY NICE CRASH PADS. ONE IS A 36X48 4 INCHES GOOD CONDITION STILL. FOAM IS STILL STIFF. $100 OBO

THE OTHER IS A 72 X 48 SUPER PAD (ITS A GREAT SIZE) GOOD CONIDTION STILL. FOAM IS STILL STIFF. $160.00 OBO

ITEMS ARE LOCATED IN RAPID CITY. I DON’T WANT TO SELL BUT HAVE TOO MANY PADS AND NOT ENOUGH ROOM IN THE HOUSE.

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LOST AND FOUND:

FOUND A PAIR OF BLACK SUNGLASSES AT MOUNT RUSHMORE ABOUT A WEEK AGO IN THE SOUTH SEAS AREA. IF YOU CAN DESCRIBE THEM THEY ARE YOURS.

FOUND A BLACK DIAMOND HEADLAMP IN THE MOUNT BALDY VICINITY IF YOU CAN TELL ME WHAT KIND AND COLOR ITS YOURS.

Hope and Change

Again a lot of people have been asking about the ” Emancipation Project.” I first looked at this project about a year ago and worked it a bit before being shut down and putting it on the shelf to come back to. This year local climber Chris Hirsch asked about the project and I was psyched and told him to get after it. After a couple of weeks waiting around to see if any news of a send had happened I was left with nothing. Finally on Tuesday Chris confirmed He and Aaron Stetzer had climbed this beautiful thin crack line and named it, ” Hope and Change V8.” A lot of clean up and hard work by both Climbers Make this a new area classic and one that no climber should shy away from.

I had the chance to also discuss some of the new development in the Oval office with Chris. I can’t stress enough how great its been having people share information for the Black Hills Bouldering Guide. I had the chance via Chris to sample some of local strong climber Braden Herbst’s new problems in the Office. All of which are proud lines and should see more traffic in the coming future. I had the chance to also clean and climb some new stuff. One is a possible V7 that is short and stout on the back of the last boulder in the gully. The other ones were in a newer area being developed called, ” The Situation Room.” some decent potential here and some scary futuristic highball lines. In my opinion its a pretty magical place and rarely visited. The first problem back here was a problem I did a few years back called, ” Flip-Adelphia V5” and the Highball slab problem, ” “That’s Politics Bitch V3/4” highball with the crux at the last move 20 plus feet off the ground. “The Great Recession V4″ climbs out of the cave and is another fun warm up.

Thanks again for everyone helping out! I won’t always be posting updates on climbs but lately the development is just too good not to. Thanks for the support and I hope the guide will be out soon!