Big Whigs Boulder

BIG WHIGS BOULDER

GETTING THERE AND INFORMATION:

The Big Whigs Boulder is a massive boulder that many climbers pass by heading to the Emancipation Wall. Its tall and in many ways very dirty. The problems once they see more traffic will clean up and a few may even be classics. You should be able to even see this boulder from the parking area by looking up towards Emancipation Wall. To access this boulder from the parking area follow the faint dirt trail heading East. After a few feet you should see a faint trail running up hill to climbers right. This is the Emancipation Wall trail. Follow this up hill as it slowly follows the highway back towards the monument. After a minute you should pass by the first obvious boulder ” Southern Oracle.” If you look up the hill you should be able to see the Massive Black Boulder that is The Big Whigs Boulder.

To Access the topo for the whole area Click on the Emancipation Boulders Tab itself for a overview. 

 

bigwhigboulder1

The Red Sun  V4***

Once this problem cleans up it could be 4 stars. For some the crux may be getting situated on the rock. Once on work up to the huge horizontal seam. From here get high feet and slap left hand on the arête. Either continue slapping up the arête or just dyno for it. Just make sure you know where you are dynoing to.

FA: Michael Madsen

 

 

Birdie  V4***

This could possible fall under “Classic” with more clean up. For what looked like an easy warm up turned into a scary hard mantle up top. ( Crux) Good line get on it! Starts in the first huge Seam about Waste High. Move up into the next big seam with good holds. The hard crux mantle is what makes this problem fun and slightly committing. You blind slap and hope to hit anything that can help you pull hard over the bulge and mantle on fine granite.

FA: John Andersen and Michael Madsen

 

 

BIG WHIGS EAST FACE

bigwhigsboulder2

 

Slanderous Slab  V1**

Stand start and move up on smallish but good holds. Fun but intimating with the hill sloping down and away.  A true highballish slab which is a rare for bouldering in this area.  Just don’t fall..

FA: Michael Madsen

The British are Coming  V1**

Stand start and move up to a small horizontal seam. From here traverse a move and use your left hand on the half moon arête feature to the top.

FA: Michael Madsen