Mount Baldy is home to some of if not the best bouldering that the Black Hills has to offer. The problems listed on this page are part of Mount Baldy and the sectors that surround it. Mount Baldy is a beautiful dome of granite to the east of Mount Rushmore. Very visible and obvious from the road and from great distances. This area has the highest concentration of high quality bouldering in the Black Hills. Although Mount Baldy is “THE” bouldering spot for the state and also world class it sees very little traffic. Expect to have the place to yourself minus a hiker or two. It has stayed hidden and pristine for many years please take care of this area for future generations.
MOUNT BALDYS TIMELINE
In The late 70s
-Mark Jacob climbs The Hydra Crack (5.11+) V3/4 at Mount Baldy using 2 pieces of gear.
-Local Larry Schaffer wanders up to Baldy and has the place to himself for almost a decade. Climbing many testpieces and developing full areas. Most of his work has been lost. He likely established Orange Roughy (V6) , and begins to look and clean what is to become the ultra classic Seul Avec Dieu (V7), The Black Jackpot area and Exit Stage Left and Center in the late 80s.
-In the mid 80s The Lewis Brothers Mike and Rusty do the first boulder ascent of Hydra Crack.
Bouldering picks up at Baldy with the arrival of Greg Parker and Dave Asscherick ” The Godfathers of Baldy Bouldering”. Along with Larry Schafer, Travis Rykempa, Curt Love, Nathan Renner, Mikel Cronin, Blake Workman and Pat Flemming. They establish well over 100 classic problems. Its in this time that Dave Asscherick sends Seul Avec Dieu (V7) after Larry shows it to him one day in 1996. The name translates to ” Alone With God.” It becomes one of Mount Baldys first Classics and testpiece.
In the early 2000s bouldering development had settled down. Now with over 300 quality problems it was the premier venue for Black Hills bouldering. Most of Mount Baldys original developers had moved on or “retired” from climbing. Greg Parker over Christmas Break and after a not so good attempt. Sends his long standing project, One that he had been eyeing since his first session at Baldy. The Prow V10**** stood as the testpiece at Baldy for many years and the first established double digit boulder problem. In the coming months Chuck Fryberger a strong Colorado climber and filmmaker arrives in the Black Hills to film a bouldering film. His interest is John Gill problems and development of Mount Baldy. He brings with him other strong climbers including, Ben Scott, Kurt Smith, Elaina Arenz and none other than John “The Verm” Sherman. Over the course of filming they establish tons of new high quality lines around the Rushmore area. Chuck Fryberger establishes Rushmores newest hardlines including: No More Mr.T V9/10, Frybergers Horse Theif Traverse V10, Over The Radar V9/10, Trogdor V9, I Know Tecate V8/9, Burninator V8/9, Hush Puppies V8, Dragon Arete V7, Strong Bad V7 (Unrepeated), Strong Slab V5 and many others.