IRIE HEIGHTS

NOT NORTH NOSTRIL CAVE

Not North Nostril Cave is commonly referred to as, “Sugar Plum Cave.” When heading north in front of Mount Baldy you will come to a path that runs east to west. This trail is also an exit from Baldy. About 200 ft past this trail still heading north you will run into a small cave in the cliff side this is it.

V0-V3 = 1

V4-V7 = 2

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Sugar Plum V4 /V6***

Starts low in the cave works out the right side using the biggest holds. It exit the top right side of the cave. The V6 works more of the actual roof holds.

Pipe Stream V7**

Low start on the left side of cave. Small crimps on the roof. Stout for the grade and rarely done despite being so close to Sugar Plum.

First Ascent: Josh Dreher

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NORTH NOSTRIL CAVE

TROGDOR V9

One of the biggest dynos in the Midwest and possible the US. Not only is it a huge full on dyno but your throwing yourself outwards and back. Only a handful of people have got it.  How do you grade a dyno?

First Ascent: Chuck Fryberger 2000

North Nostril Cave
North Nostril Cave

Tastes Like Burning V9****

SDS under cling the schist holds and move up and out of the cave. Knee bars are a major part of this problem. Big last move to the finish hold of Trogdor.

First Ascent: Justin Jaeger 2001

Justin Jaeger climbs the First Ascent Of Tastes Like Burning V9 Photo: Jaeger Collection
Justin Jaeger climbs the First Ascent Of Tastes Like Burning V9
Photo: Jaeger Collection

THE CHEAT V7****

Start as low as possible practically sitting a move up the schist holds along the rail. Right foot heel hooks high. Move both hands up to the point of the rail. Throw right hand to first crimp at lip. adjust and fire off your right to the next crimp roll fingers and move left hand over to the first crimp. Move out right along lip to top out. Great overhanging problem on good holds.

First Ascent: Chuck Fryberger 2000

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