MOUNT BALDY BACKSIDE

Baldy Backside Map
Baldy Backside Map

_________________________________________________________________________

The Corridor Boulder

The corridor boulder is the right side wall of the “corridor” which is formed by The corridor boulder and The Stage.

You walk right past it on the main path that follows through this area. See Map.

ANKLE BREAKER   V4**

Traverse the corridor boulder look for a bad boulder underneath the top out.

First Ascent: Greg Parker 90s

WARM UP SLAB   V2**

Far rightside ( west corner) move up on small crimps. Bad feet at the beginning.

First Ascent : Greg Parker 90s

WARM UP MIDDLE   V3**

Small polished white crimps directly up the center face.

First Ascent : Larry Schaffer late 80s

CORRIDOR ARETE   V0*

Left side (east) side arête is nice scrubbed holds. SDS move up huge holds.

First Ascent: Larry Schaffer late 80s

SLAP HAPPY ( Classic Arete) V4****

Great arête climb up sidepulls and a obvious sloper hold mid way up. Landing was rebuilt in 2015.

First Ascent: Dave Asscherick 90s

SLAP HAPPIER ( Grab Roll and Pull) V6/7 **

Hard sharp crimps. SDS first move is staticing up to the left crimp holds. adjust and move up small crimps to a left hand sidepull and then mantle.

First Ascent: Greg Parker 90s

__________________________________________________________________________

THE STAGE

The Stage is a huge almost free solo boulder that is facing the corridor boulder. You walk right past this boulder on the back side. The path comes within 2 feet of its backside. Look for the corridor or the open book Strong Bad V7 on the Southeast corner.

PINCH SIT DOWN   V2*

middle of the stage boulder on its south face. SDS on chalked holds move up through bulge and your done.

First Ascent : Larry Schaffer late 80s

EXIT STAGE LEFT  V4**

HIGHBALL. Obvious starting holds lead through the small bulge and up and left on the slab like face.  Likely seen 2-3 ascents only as of 2015.

First Ascent: Larry Schaffer late 80s

EXIT STAGE CENTER  V5***

HIGHBALL and scary direct I believe this problem is unrepeated as of 2015.

First Ascent: Larry Schaffer late 80s

EXIT STAGE RIGHT ( AKA JUDGEMENT DAY) V5****

SDS in the small cave. Pull up and right hand goes on a crimp on the outside lip of the cave. You adjust feet and fall back on the obvious block with your left hand. Throw up to the small pocket and then throw over to the crack up the crack. a crucial jug broke off in 2015.

STRONGBAD V7**

Chuck Frybergers unrepeated Highball line that follows the open book on the northeast side of the formation. Pretty much a free solo with a bad landing.

First Ascent : Chuck Fryberger 2000

__________________________________________________________________________

THE LILY PAD BOULDER

The lily pad boulder is a long boulder with many problems on it from easy to hard. This is the next boulder after The Stage and Corridor boulders. Again, The path crosses right in front of this boulder and you CANNOT miss it.

FROGONIUS  V4***

SDS in a contrived low croutched start. Left toe goes up below the starting holds. Pull up and as you do lift up and off with your left foot to bring your right hand to the crimp. Adjust fee and cross through with your left hand to the crystal sloper hold. Move up throwing a high left foot on the 2nd hold. Hard for many!

First Ascent: Brent Kertzman 1995 (stand) Greg Parker SDS mid 90s

 

DISH MANTEL V2*

To the right of Frogonius is a short few move problem with a dish as one of the start holds.

First Ascent: Blake Workman 90s

 V4*

Dogs uses the left handholds of Frogonious as right hand gastons. A project is the SDS into this problem which starts on the low rail first foot of Frogonious and goes up and left according to Greg Parker

First Ascent: Greg Parker 90s

GROOVY  V2 **

Goes up side through the slanting crack.

First Ascent: Greg Parker 90s

DOGS V4**

body length away from Blakes Sloper problem moves up gastons and sidepulls.

First Ascent: Dave Asscherick 90s

BLAKES SLOPER DISH PROBLEM V4***

stand on a sharp crimp and other hand in a dish bad feet to get established. Move up through dish.

First Ascent : Blake Workman 90s

FROGS V7***

Stand start on the “belly” move up on bad sidepulls and work interesting feet.

First Ascent : Greg Parker early 90s

POLYWOGS V7**

SDS on the rail for Hogs only move directly up instead of slightly right and up. uses small micro crimps.

POLYHOGS  V6/7***

Combination of both Hogs and Polywogs starts way left and stays left hitting the sloper with just your right hand and up.

First Ascent: Blake Workman 2000s

HOGS V6/7***

Would be classic if not for the boulder protruding behind you. Far rightside ( West side of the south face) look for obvious sloper rail with boulder below it. short and powerful. REMEMBER TO START SLIGHTLY LEFT NOT DIRECTLY BELOW!

First Ascent: Greg Parker 90s

TRAVIS’S V4**

SDS Start on the far right corner to the right of HOGS. Use the sloper for Hogs with your left and another bad sloper for your right is the second moves.

First Ascent: Travis Rykempa 90s

LEES MANTLE V0***

Short but fun. SDS and work the obvious scrubbed feature on the backside. To a huge jug with your right or left hand to mantle up.

First Ascent: Lee Terveen?

_________________________________________________________________________

LIPPY BOULDER

DON’T GET LIPPY!  V4

SDS on the obvious lowest jugs sticking out of the lip. Move along the lip to its end using heel hooks and good jug holds. Throw up with your right to a crystal and backhand your left and press up for the mantle.

First Ascent: Dan Dewell 2000s

__________________________________________________________________________

SPORTS ACTION BOULDER

The Sports Action Boulder is down to the right of the Corridor boulder. It sits by itself on the edge of a cliff side. It has great rock with beautiful streaks of green, orange and yellow. Sports Action Arete is a classic flake problem with a committing throw towards the top. Chuck Fryberger’s Durrarex V4  and Strong Slab V5 are unrepeated as of 2015.

Sports Action Beta
Sports Action Beta

SPORTS ACTION ARETE V4/5****

Stand start on the left flake and work the flake to its end. High right foot gains you a small bump with a crystal. Feel good and commit to the throw to the top lip.

First Ascent: Chuck Fryberger 2000

PLAYBOOK   V3/4**

Dihedral feature that looks easy to the left of Sports Action Arete. Some can do it first go others may have to work it.

LADYFINGERS V4**

SDS work up the flake. Get a high right foot on the flake and throw up with your left hand to a small crimp. Adjust and mantle to the top.

First Ascent: Sarah Marvez 2000

FLOW KENNEL COMPANY V4

Slightly to the left of Lady fingers stand and follow the sharp crystal crimps up the bulge and mantle.

First Ascent: Dan Dewell 2002

THE POOPSMITH V5/6***

SDS on the left side of the huge chimney crack. Pull on the crimp rail and slap the arête with your right. adjust feet and slap the great sidepull up top. Throw left hand out to a good crimp. Get feet up on starting holds and move up and slightly left of corner.

First Ascent: Justin Jaeger 2003

STRONG SLAB V5***

Downhill side slab problem. HIGHBALL with a not so good landing.

First Ascent: Chuck Fryberger 2000

DURRAREX V4**

Open book highball to the left of strong bad. Connects with strong bad at the very top crystals on the arête.

First Ascent: Chuck Fryberger 2003

___________________________________________________________________

BEER BOULDER

The beer boulder is directly downhill (east) from Sports Action Boulder. Strong Slab and Durrarex both face the backside of the Beer Boulder. Chuck Fryberger has one known problem on this block.

I KNOW TECATE V8

Stand start slightly off the right. Move in and hit the sloper at the lip. The crux is the desperate mantle on small holds.

First Ascent: Chuck Fryberger 2000

____________________________________________________________________

THE FORT

The Fort is a large boulder that sits almost against Half Dome on its Northside. The trail also runs right underneath it. It gets its name because of Bob Archabold? who built a “fort” using the overhang and leaning logs up against it. Bet it was sweet! Now a days there are no logs leaned up on it and it looks like any other boulder. Its a great spot to warm up for the day. Make sure to check out the Left Arete V3**** a great jug haul warm up.

LEFT ARETE V3****

________________________________________________________________

DIRECTORS CUT

Beautiful looking boulder. It has a half moon crest seam in the middle. It faces down hill or south towards the clam. Can be seen from I know Tecate and Sports Action. A must warm up on this block!

________________________________________________________________

LEES MANTLE V2***

SDS in the undercling seam. Work up and left using the seam. Once at the top of the seam transition onto the sloper on the lip slightly right. Pull up and mantle. Great warm up!

FIRST ASCENT: LEE TERVEEN

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s