BLACK JACK POTS
The Black Jackpot Gully is host to some really good stone. The granite down here takes on a black appearance at times due to the light grain lichen attached. For the most part the rock down here is solid. Some landings are better than others due to the nature of the gully sloping slightly downhill. Larry Schaffer was likely the first person to visit and develop most of the problems down here. Most of his work has been lost but it is likely if a line looks like it has been scrubbed or climbed on and its not documented its likely the work of Larry Schaffer. Problems to check out are Ante Up V6/9 depending on if you go to a low start or start standing. The Black Jack Pot is one of the finest V7s in the baldy area. One of the best V0s in the area also is in the Black Jack Pots it was put up by the “Minnesota-Colorado” crew. Its on the block named after them.
From Problems such as The Hydra Crack Boulder, Seul Avec Dieu and Orange Roughy. Head East towards and past Orange Roughy. You will come out of the trees and onto some granite veins. To your right will be The God Is Love Block with Black Roughy aka God is Love problem. Stay on the granite veins and follow them directly down and staying on the left gully directly down from Black Roughy. You will run directly into the Black Jack Pots.
THE DIRT BURGLAR
The Dirt Burglar is one of the first problems you encounter when entering the Black Jackpots. You will see the backside of this as you come around the first corner you will see the first problem. The namesake problem Kurt Smiths, ” Dirt Burglar V3.” This is a highball problem that follows up the sloping rail towards the middle of the face. There is also another problem on the far northwest face through a overhang.
THE DIRT BURGLAR V3
Sloping rail mid way on the East face. HIGHBALL and dirty as of 2015.
First Ascent: Kurt Smith 2000
Starts low on the overhang and works the holds to the end and then steps off. Could be a good problem if it had a true top out.
First Ascent: Larry Schaffer?
COLORADO MINNESOTA BLOCK
Beautiful Looking block that you will see right in front of you when coming down the gully. It runs north to south and is hidden behind another block slightly. One classic line the Colorado Minnesota Arete V0 is one of the best arêtes for the grade at Baldy. Tall and committing. There are other older problems on the obvious slab west face.
THE COLORADO MINNESOTA ARETE V0++****
Follows up the obvious arête that has been scrubbed. Probably needs a better scrub next go. Great problem and one of the best low end arêtes for Baldy.
First Ascent: Dan Dewell, Brian Camp, Jim Merli, Justin Jaeger, Chip Phillips and Chuck Fryberger
SLAB RIGHT V4
THE BLACK JACK POT BOULDER
The Black Jack Pot Boulder is a beautiful black boulder in the center of the gully. It has all around great problems and is worth checking out if you venture down this way. Greg Parkers Ante Up V9 sds is likely the hardest problem down here. The Black Jack Pot another Greg Parker problem is one of the best V7s in the area.
BLACKJACK POT ARETE V6***
NorthWest arête. SDS in the horizontal seam and make 2 hard moves to a V3 upper top. Fun Problem and one to check out.
First Ascent: Allison Coin (stand) Jami Coin and Michael Madsen sds 2014
The Black Jackpot V7****
Middle line to the right of Ante Up V9. Look for The Overhang on the Northface. SDS and follow sharp and small crimps to the top. GREAT PROBLEM FOR THE GRADE AND BALDY.
First Ascent: Greg Parker late 90s