THE BLACK JACK POTS
GETTING THERE AND INFORMATION:
The Black Jackpot Gully is host to some really good stone. The granite down here takes on a black appearance at times due to the light grain lichen attached. For the most part the rock down here is solid. Some landings are better than others due to the nature of the gully sloping slightly downhill. Larry Schaffer was likely the first person to visit and develop most of the problems down here. Most of his work has been lost but it is likely if a line looks like it has been scrubbed or climbed on and its not documented its likely the work of Larry Schaffer. Problems to check out are Ante Up V6/9 depending on if you go to a low start or start standing. The Black Jack Pot is one of the finest V7s in the baldy area. One of the best V0s in the area also is in the Black Jack Pots it was put up by the “Minnesota-Colorado” crew. Its on the block named after them.
From Problems such as The Hydra Crack Boulder, Seul Avec Dieu and Orange Roughy. Head East towards and past Orange Roughy. You will come out of the trees and onto some granite veins. To your right will be The God Is Love Block with Black Roughy aka God is Love problem. Stay on the granite veins and follow them directly down and staying on the left gully directly down from Black Roughy. You will run directly into the Black Jack Pots.
THE DIRT BURGLAR
The Dirt Burglar is one of the first problems you encounter when entering the Black Jackpots. You will see the backside of this as you come around the first corner you will see the first problem. The namesake problem Kurt Smiths, ” Dirt Burglar V3.” This is a highball problem that follows up the sloping rail towards the middle of the face. There is also another problem on the far northwest face through a overhang.
THE DIRT BURGLAR V3*
Sloping rail mid way on the East face. HIGHBALL and dirty as of 2015.
First Ascent: Kurt Smith 2000
Starts low on the overhang and works the holds to the end and then steps off. Could be a good problem if it had a true top out.
First Ascent: Larry Schaffer
John Andersen on The Dirt Burglar V3
Scare Tactics V3R***
Fun Exposed arête committing only because of the nasty fall into the jagged branches of a slash pile. On the second ascent a certain local muttered quietly the words, “Scare Tactics…” thus giving birth to its name. He doesn’t remember saying it but the people around were all laughing.
First Ascent: Michael Madsen 2016
Slopey Stylee V4****
Hard start will make you ask yourself is this really V4? Once you finesse your way onto the block on micro smears and balance. Move up on slopers to the top. Great problem!
First Ascent: Chip Phillips 2003
Seal Beach V4***
Hard start again brings you to some decent holds. Slap your right hand onto the rounded arête and work it to its top.
FA: Chip Phillips 2003
Jami Coin sends Slopey Stylee V4.
COLORADO MINNESOTA BLOCK
Beautiful Looking block that you will see right in front of you when coming down the gully. It runs north to south and is hidden behind another block slightly. One classic line the Colorado Minnesota Arete V0 is one of the best arêtes for the grade at Baldy. Tall and committing. There are other older problems on the obvious slab west face.
SOUTH DAKOTA SEAM V3*
Stand start and follow up the dirty seam. More clean up would make this a great warm up for the area. Follow until the seams end and go up on face holds to a easy but high mantle.
FA: Michael Madsen
THE COLORADO MINNESOTA ARETE V1++****
Follows up the obvious arête that has been scrubbed. Probably needs a better scrub next go. Great problem and one of the best low end arêtes for Baldy.
FA: Dan Dewell, Brian Camp, Jim Merli, Justin Jaeger, Chip Phillips and Chuck Fryberger
South Dakota SLAB V3***
Starts low and works up a series of awkward holds on interesting feet. Cowboy Up!
FA: John Andersen
Black Hills Gold V2***
Starts on good holds and moves up on small crimp holds. Balancey moves lead to a nice jug rail feature at the top.
FA: Michael Madsen
John Andersen on the classic Colorado-Minnesota Arete V0++
THE BLACK JACK POT BOULDER
The Black Jack Pot Boulder is a beautiful black boulder in the center of the gully. It has all around great problems and is worth checking out if you venture down this way. Greg Parkers Ante Up V9 sds is likely the hardest problem down here. The Black Jack Pot another Greg Parker problem is one of the best V7s in the area.
Ante Up V6/V9
SDS low and move up a series of powerful tension moves to the crux “credit card” crimp. Pull hard to the top and try not to get pumped in the process. The stand goes at about V6 in itself. A true testpiece for the area.
FA: Greg Parker
The Black Jackpot V7****
Middle line to the right of Ante Up V9. Look for The Overhang on the Northface. SDS and follow sharp and small crimps to the top. GREAT PROBLEM FOR THE GRADE AND BALDY!
FA: Greg Parker
Black Jackpot Arete V6***
NorthWest arête. SDS in the horizontal seam and make 2 hard moves to a V3 upper top. Fun Problem and one to check out. A former Greg Parker project that he never got around to finishing.
FA: Stand: Alison Coin SDS: Michael Madsen and Jami Coin
Michael Madsen on Ante Up V9