OLD BALDYS MELON PATCH ( FRONTSIDE)

Melon Patch and Frontside of Mount Baldy
Melon Patch and Frontside of Mount Baldy

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OOZEE BOULDER

One of the first boulders you encounter when entering baldy proper. When you come up the hill for the entrance the trail forks left or right. This boulder is situated directly behind the giant round boulder that divides the fork. Look for a boulder about waist high…..this is it..

My Oozee Weighs A Ton V1

Um….very small like the dirt burglar of dirt burglars. Make a few moves going right and then up.

First Ascent: Blake Workman

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THE CADDYSHACK BOULDER

The Caddyshack boulder is a proud boulder with a few easier problems and a lot for the mid grade climber. This is close to the entrance of Mount Baldy. Look for a big seam with chalked up slopers on its west side. The north side features a huge overhang with yellow / orange rock underneath.

PROBLEMS BY GRADE:

V0-V3 = 3

V4-V7 = 3

V8-V10 = 2?

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Greasy Grimy Gopher Guts V6****

Sloper madness. Start matched on the lowest slopers. Right foot dabbed up on the protruding wall and left just hangs. Right hand moves up first. Match left hand and left foot heel hook. Cross through with your left to a small kind of hidden sloper on the flatish part of the crack. Cross through with right to the jug at the end of the crack before you move up.

First Ascent: Greg Parker 90s

Nunan V3**

SDS to the left of GGGG on corner. Short crimps to a good hold and a short mantle. Short and sweet.

First Ascent: Greg Parker 90s

Frybergers V8**

Starts low on the right side of the overhang. Moves up towards the lip and then cuts left out to the apex and up. This problem as of 2015 is unrepeated.

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THE ANOMALY BOULDER

Boulder that lies directly north of The Caddyshack Boulder. The low angle easy side of this giant boulder sits facing The Caddyshack boulder. It creates a corridor with the Criminal Element boulder on its south side. Its is very close to the base of Mount Baldy / Old Baldy. Great place from easy stuff to really hard stuff.

V0-V3 = 2

V4-V7= 3

V8-V10= 2

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Warm Up V0**

Route furthest into the corridor. Easy and fun also a great downclimb.

First Ascent: David Asscherick 90s

Anomaly V5**

Stand start move up on 2 small sharp holds and throw for the giant white quartz crystal. Match and mantle. HARD!

First Ascent : David Asscherick 90s

Sit Down and Be Counted V8****

One of Baldys finest and hardest test pieces. SDS in the middle of the overhang on slopers. Move up on small awkward crimps to a hidden undercling in the roof. Pull out and slightly right of the roof. Tricky mantle with a heel hook.

First Ascent: Greg Parker 90s

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THE MELON PATCH BOULDER

Untitled

Sunny Beach V6**

SDS on the south side of the boulder. Move up and slightly right up towards the leaning arête of the east face.

First Ascent : Greg Parker 90s

Honey Dew V1**

Great warm up. SDS on the north east corner. Move up the corner on big holds to a fun top.

First Ascent : Greg Parker 90s

Larry’s Project

Straight up the middle of the boulder some how. Minnesota strong man Jim Merli worked a line getting close.

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THE WISH BOULDER

The Wish V10**

Short powerful sloper problem. Sit start on the obvious slopers on the southside of formation. Make just 2-3 moves to the top.

First Ascent : Blake Workman 2001

The Wish Direct V7**

Slightly to the left of The Wish. Move into the Wish makes for setting up easier.

First Ascent : Justin Jaeger 2001

Slopey Rail V1**

First problem in the corridor on the northface. This problem is the farthest problem on the northeast corner.

First Ascent : Greg Parker 90s

Warm up V0**

Slightly to the right of Slopey Rail is a warm up that goes directly up.

First Ascent: Greg Parker 90s

Amazing Little Pinch Boy V3**

Starts standing on the obvious black dykes and moves up hitting the slopers.

First Ascent : Dave Asscherick 90s

Super Amazing Little Pinch Boy V6**

Starts sitting and to the right of Amazing Little Pinch Boy. Moves left 2 moves then up on Amazing Little Pinch Boy.

First Ascent: Dave Asscherick 90s

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LIP SERVICE BOULDER

Lip Service Boulder
Lip Service Boulder

Lip Service V6***

Starts sitting on the lower right part on the southwest corner. Moves left on the lip traversing to the tip and up.

First Ascent: Greg Parker 90s

V3***

Campus problem that’s on the far left side of the big roof.

V1**

To the left of the V4 pretty fun on good holds.

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