Caddy Shack Boulder

The Caddy Shack Boulder

The Caddy Shack Boulder  is a great boulder with many different lines on it. The most climbed route on this black and possibly a contender for Baldy is the route, ” Greasy Grimy Gopher Guts V6. This climb attacks the horizontal seam that splits the West face.  There are a couple of short warm ups as well. Outside of GGGG most people notice the beautiful overhanging south face. This face has two problems lost to time. Both are said to be in the V8 range and both were sent by Chuck Fryberger. I had the opportunity to ask Dan and Chuck in person about this boulder. Both remember Chuck doing two routes one in the centerish and one on the right hand side. We may never know the exact line traveled but it would be worthy additions to clean and send these problems or a variation.

 

Greasy Grimy Gopher Guts V6****

Mount Baldy Classic problem and one that should be on everyones circuit. SDS with both hands in the seam. Put your left toe on a small foot holds and press off and up adjusting your heel hook with your feet. Moves on decent slopers as long as temps are good. Do a small throw to a good jug hold outside of the seam and pull up for a mantle and its over.

First Ascent: Greg Parker mid 90s

 

Spaulding V4*

Start below the obvious scrubbed holds above the horizontal seam mid way through GGGG. Make a big move to those holds and pull up and mantle. Kind of a worthless variation… Sorry Dan.

First Ascent: Dan Dewell 2000

 

Looming V4*

Opposite side of the block from the other problems. Starts to the right over the overhang. Make jump move to a good hold. Do a mantle move and move up and slightly right on the slab to the top.

First Ascent: Dave Asscherick mid 90s

Frybergers Right V8?

This problem climbs the right side of the overhang. Starts low and moves out somehow using your right hand on the overhang and left hand on some ricey crimps is all I was told…. Any new news on this problem and the next let me know please…

First Ascent: Chuck Fryberger 2003

 

Frybergers Center V8?

Another problem chuck climbed starts lowish in the center and moves up on suspect holds is all he could tell me on this and the above route. He climbed both routes on a solo trip back to climb with Dan Dewell in 2003.

First Ascent: Chuck Fryberger 2003

 

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