The Trash Can Boulders ( The Borglum Memorial Boulders)

Beta Map for the Trash Can boulders

INFORMATION:

The Trash Can Boulders are a nice cluster of boulders that lie 1 minute from the parking lot of Wrinkled Rock Parking Lot.  Expect small crimps on good rock with for the most part good landings. This area is a great area to start or end the day as there are many grades from V0 to V11. Most  of the easy face problems were done in the late 70s early 80s.( Mark Jacobs, The Lewis Brothers, Larry Schaffer, Brent Kertzman) The mid 90s brought a new group of climbers in ( Greg Parker, Nate Renner, Travis Rykepma, Eric Sutton, Dave Asscherick and many others. They developed more of the harder boulder problems.  In the 2014/15 Chris Hirsch established the scary highball classic V5 on the Heavy Breathing Boulder. Many had looked at this line over the years. The Masochist went in around the

PROBLEM COUNT: 20

BEST TIME OF DAY: ALL DAY

ROCK TYPE: Fine Grain Granite with lots of Dyke features.

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A. FIVE ALIVE BOULDER AND THE CORRIDOR

First set of boulders you come to when entering the Trash Cans. Look for a tallish boulder with vertical cracks below its arête on the northeast face.  The corridor is to the left of this problem.

Estimated Time: 1 minute

Elevation: 5,530 feet

1.) FIVE ALIVE  V4**

SDS on the arête. Move up using good crack holds. High feet and slap the arête to the top.

First Ascent :  Five guys in 1995

2.) ERICS FLASHY ODDITY  V6***

Problem to the left of Five Alive (V4). Move up on obvious single jutting out crystals to the top.

First Ascent:  Eric Sutton 1995

3. ) THE WARM UP V0***

Climb the northwest arête / face on good holds to the top.

4.) THE CORRIDOR FACE V0-V1

 

CORRIDOR WARM UP (V0)** has fun good clean crimp problems on the entire face choose your adventure.  First Ascent : Brent Kertzman 1980s

5.) CORRIDOR CORNER V4**

This problem starts on the backside of the block and moves left towards the corner and up utilizing small crimps and slopers. First Ascent : Blake Workman?

B.) THE TRASH CAN BOULDER

Namesake boulder of the area. Tall and good rock quality with most of the cruxes coming towards the top. Not sure who developed these problems but they were long done by the time Mike Olsen got to them. You will notice the Red rock pocks on the rock Mike’s signature. Most problems on this boulder are hard or semi committing.

 

 1.) THE TRASH CAN LEFT  V7/8***

Follows up small crimps and tricky feet to a horrible no holds top out.

2.) THE TRASH CAN CENTER V7/8***

Start directly up the middle of the block on decent holds down low. Hard top out.

3.) THE TRASH CAN ARETE  V4***

Starts on a good sidepull on the arête and moves up on the arête proper. Good reachy holds.

4.) V4/5***

Depending on how you do this. You can start practically sitting on a good hold and a sidepull. Heel hook your right foot and move on the small dyke rail as far as you can go. Bring feet below you and move up on the crystals above. Either cross through or just bump and go for them. Fun crystal line top out.

First Ascent: Blake Workman maybe?

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C.) HEAVY BREATHING BOULDER

The Heavy Breathing Boulder is a big boulder that sits on the hill side. It lies to the right of The Trash Can boulder. Look for a small cave on its East face ( side facing the Trash Can Boulder). Heavy Breathing the namesake route lies in here. On The downhill back side is Chris Hirsch’s V5 Oscar.

1.) HEAVY BREATHING V5/6***

Starts low in the small cave on the East face. This cave faces the Trash Can Boulder. Move up and out of cave on chalked slopers.

First Ascent: Greg Parker and David Asscherick mid 90s

OSCAR  V5/6****

Tall beautiful committing problem. SDS move up off the crimp and heel hook. Move right in the middle of the dyke ” X ”  feature. Knee bar and with your left hand on a crimp. Cross your right through and hit a small but ok hold above your left hand. Throw your right foot over to the lower dyke and move your left hand up to a sloper bump. Match both right and left on the jutting out good looking hold.

First Ascent: Chris Hirsch 2014

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FALL GUY V3

To the left of Oscar is a fridge like arête. Stand with left hand on arête and right goes up to a sharp small crystal. Get feet established and throw for the broken off knob crystal you will see it up and right. Its really good for 2-3 fingers. Avoid the crimp in the middle of the face its not as good I know it tempting though. Keep moving your left hand higher and get really high feet and throw for the Dykes up top.

First Ascent: David Asscherick 1995

 

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C. THE DYNONOMETER BOULDER

This boulder is behind and to the left of the Trash Can Boulder. If you are facing the problems on the Trash Can Boulder look to your left and you will see this boulder

The MASOCHIST V5/6**

SDS on obvious holds. Work up and hit the good sidepull jug feature. Left hight heel hook. Move hands across various sharp crimps and holds. Gain the “worm dyke” feature and bump to a lower crimp right before the apex. Move up and hit the jug sloper hold on the top of the corner. Powerful and Uncomfortable at times.

First Ascent: John Andersen and Mike Madsen

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BLAST WAVE V6**

SDS On the left hand side of the west face. ( To the left of Dyamometer ). Work good but sharp holds right match on the arête sloper and throw a high left heel hook. RIght hand throws out right to a kind of non existent sloper on the face. With your right hand here and your left heel hooked pull up using explosive strength to either work up the arête or just go right for the top and throw.

First Ascent: Michael Madsen 2015

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