THE AMERICAN OUTLAW BOULDERS

 

 

 

 

THE AMERICAN OUTLAW BOULDERS

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

GETTING THERE AND INFORMATION:

When the summer heat comes to the Hills it can make for a miserable day on the rock. The American Outlaw boulders can offer everything the overheated climber is looking for on those scorching hot days.  This area offers great problems on great stone. The climbing is roadside and offers nice shade and the usual slight breeze in the summer months. The area was first found by Local Luke Kretchmar. Luke as you may know has discovered some of the best bouldering around Custer. He developed this area, The chicken Pox boulder and the Swamp boulder. Along with Heath Lillie they cleaned and scrubbed almost all of the problems listed on here today. Many they never got around to completing but you can be assured if you are not 100% sure if a obvious line has been climbed it likely was by Luke and Heath.

DIRECTIONS:

Head East out of the town of Custer for 3 miles. When Calamity Peak ( Granite dome with tons of rock around it) comes into view on your left look for the road sign American Center Road. Take a left off Hwy 16a onto the gravel road American Center Road. Follow this for another 2 miles until you see the sign for Outlaw Ranch Bible Camp on your right. Park here behind the sign seems to be the best as there is a small pullout. The boulders are right to your left problems face away from the road.

IMG_2445

Take a right off of American Center Rd onto Outlaw Ranch Road. The following pictures show what this looks like.

IMG_2446

You can See American Center Rd in the lower left hand side of picture. Take a right onto Outlaw Ranch Rd. You can see a car parked off the road in the picture on the right. The bouldering is the cluster directly behind the Outlaw Ranch sign.

IMG_2444

The American Outlaw Boulders are the cluster in the left hand side of photo. The rightside of the road is where you park. Make sure to park off the road as The Outlaw Ranch bible camp uses this as their main entrance. They have stopped and talked with climbers before they are very nice people. Please show respect when climbing here.

 

meridianef

Mariana Trench V2**

First problem you encounter when walking up the Outlaw Boulders. Step up onto the small slab at the base and transition onto the arete proper. Look for a small crimp crack feature with your right hand. Get this and smear feet up on good small holds left food usually goes on the left side of arete. Move directly up hitting good crystals until you can hit the ” love bump” jug hold on the top of the arete. Commit to the short mantle that can be a little tricky depending on height. Best warm up in this area and a good one to start on.

FA: Michael Madsen Summer 2015

Tropic of Slabricorn V3**

This is the second problem you encounter when walking up to the Outlaw Boulders. This starts by working the diagonal crack for a move or two. Move up and get some decent feet smears. Look slightly out left for a few small crystals to bump to. You want to have your left hand eventually go for the small flake feature towards the lip. Pull up using this hold and prepare for the EPIC mantle. Great holds on top but the mantle can be insecure and for reasons unknown down right scary. More traffic and this will become a great warm up.

FA: Michael Madsen and John Andersen July 2016

 

meridiannortheastface

1. Orgeat V4****

SDS and move the good rock. Look for the “hidden” left hand up high.  Throw your right hand to the sloper like features. Move right and around the corner of the suspended boulder to top out. Great problem and the best warm up for this area.

FA: Luke Kretchmar Spring 2015

 

2. Da Vinci Classic V4**

Start the same as Anti-Meridian and once you get to the lip of the boulder traverse using some decent throws and good heelhooks over and finish as for Orgeat. Pumpy!

FA: Michael Madsen Spring 2016

 

3. Anti-Meridian V4**

SDS and move up using big reaches on good holds. Short powerful and pumpy! Often overlooked needs to see more traffic. This thing feels V4/5 in my opinion depending on the day.  Nice work Luke!

FA: Luke Kretchmar 2015

 

4. V5* (No Topo See Description.)

Starts on the underclings and moves up on powerful tension beginning moves. Mantle the fun top out and its done.  NO TOPO this problem is between Anti Meridian and Ogreat.

FA: Luke Kretchmar 

meridian

1. Corpse Reviver V2/3**

Stand start on obvious holds about head height. Throw up with your right hand to a small but positive crimp. Throw your left hand out to the tufa like feature or the jug lip sidepull either one is good. Get high feet established and throw the right hand to the white rock like hold above. From here move feet up again and throw up and right of the smooth horn feature there is a hidden bucket jug feature in it out of sight. The perfect “Gym” problem according to Heath Lillie.

FA: Luke Kretchmar Spring 2015

2. Vital Energy V3***

Start the same as for Corpse Reviver on the smoothed out white jug holds. Go right hitting another jug similiar to the start hold. Move feet throught and fall into a right hand outward sidepull right below the flake. Hit the flake with your right hand high because low is kind of large and hard to grab. Work flake to the top and its done. Committing top out!

FA: Michael Madsen 

3. Sazerac V6/7***

This is the last problem on this block. SDS on small holds and move up and out right then back left using a series of decent holds. Knee bar and establish your right hand out on the corner. From here transition your weight out right and move up and hit the remaining thin crystal crimps. Different beta for different climbers. This problem has been done many different ways.

FA; Heath Lillie Spring 2015

 

 

postmer

Post Meridian V6**

If this problem were a little bigger it would be awesome. A little scrunched for the start opens up to cool hold features. SDS low on crystals and work your way up the steep short face. To gain a good rest at where the two boulders meet.  Work the small crimp features on the face of the stacked leaning boulder. After about a move or two make a big throw to the top and its over.

FA: Luke Kretchmar April 29 2015

 UN-Happy Feet V2

This is the traverse of the lip. Start on the east side of boulder and traverse the lip to the west going under the leaning boulder on top.

FA: Adam Jenkins June 2019

postmeridan2

Ying and Yang aka Principal Meridans V3

Start in the sloper crack featre sitting. Move up using not so good slopers.  Throw for the nice crimp hold in the yellow rock on the corner.  Move up and top out the boulder.

FA: Michael Madsen Spring 2016

 

V3 Sloper Problem

SDS and move up hitting the sloper slot in the yellow orange rock. Mantle and its over. Problem is on the short side and could be a good problem if taller.

FA: Luke Kretchmar

 

tessareteboulder

1. TessArete V8-9****

Begin low on a bread loaf like sloper. Move up adjusting feet to get into the hidden under clings on the slanting arete. Continue to adjust feet and work the series of under clings until you can hit a sloper towards the top. Heel hooking is key for most of the route. Awesome bouldery moves the whole way! There is the “Original Line” that is a stand start that starts pulling up into the under clings this was rated V7/8 Originally.

FA: Luke Kretchmar Stand    FA: Chris Hirsch & Aaron Stetzer

2. Project

Wow! When this power house of a problem goes it will probably one of the hardest established problems in the Hills. Many Strong climbers have attempted it but haven’t made it very far despite seeing where the line goes. Luke Kretchmar, Heath Lillie, Lee Terveen, Luke Ross and Aaron Stetzer have all attempted but walked away empty handed. As of 2019 it may need some clean up again.

 

3. Flying Tiger V7****

For awhile this remained a project. Then using his Ninja skills local Chris Hirsh made quick work of this classic and at times insecure feeling sloper problem. Work up the V3 and slowly make your way out left once the slopers start appearing. You will reach the lip and have to commit to the top.

FA: Chris Hirsch summer 2016

4. Lugano V3**

SDS and move up using the flake feature and smearing feet on small holds.  Steep pumpy climbing make this a good one for the grade.

FA: Luke Kretchmar and Heath Lillie Spring 2015

5. The Art Of Flight V4***

Luke Kretchmar had originally found this line and cleaned it. He then showed Michael Madsen who looked at it and knew it was his style of climbing. In pictures and video this problem looks short and easy. The throw to the jug hold is actually just out of reach for 6 foot and up people. Make sure to commit and latch the good jug. Or else you face this problems alter ego, ” The Art Of Flap.” It has given numerous climbers flappers. If you do stick the hold and make it to the top you will look back on some of the best movement in this area. Different variations have been done coming in from left and coming in from right from SDS.

FA: Michael Madsen Summer 2015

 

tessareteseface

1. Aloha Arete V1**

Start low on the incut crimps in the picture the #2 is covering them. Move up on good holds to the flake feature and take this to the top.

FA: John Andersen Summer 2015

 

2. The Big Kahuna V2**

Same start as the above route only instead of going out left go directly up on good crimps on the opposite side of arete.

FA: John Andersen Summer 2015

3. Maui Wowie V2**

Surprisingly fun movement on this one. When it was first climbed this route i stopped mid route and pulled all the choss off including a couple hand size rocks right at the crux section. I try and jump on this from time to time and it has cleaned up nicely. It would be the main route out of these 3 that if you had time to only do one do this one. Start low and work your way up the steep bulging arete. The back boulder and the corridor are off. Stay on the face proper for a good time. Crux comes right towards the top. Good crimps through the very short small bulge.

FA; Michael Madsen and John Andersen Summer 2015

 

4. Whale Watching VB (Very Basic)

Easiest established problem at the outlaw boulders. Climb face on great holds.