SYLVAN LAKE- CUSTER STATE PARK
Sylvan Lake is the crown jewel of Custer State Park. At 6300feet this lake offers picturesque scenery. The bouldering here is considered, ” Old School.” Most problems were developed in the golden age of the 60s-70s. John Gill being the more famous of the climbers. It is a historical site for climbers to come pay homage to the Godfather of bouldering John Gill. His highball test pieces on the Sylvan Campground will test any climber. If you can cruise these problems test your crystal pinching strength on Gills classic, The Scab V7. Still not satisfied then try one of the more iconic routes in the world. The Thimble 5.12+ solo. Committing and a horrible fall make this Gills hardest and most unrepeated problem in the Nation. Don’t worry though there are plenty of other ” Test pieces” around Sylvan Lake. Another contender for a rarely repeated problem is Charlie Fowlers Onsight free solo of, ” Acid Test 5.11+” off width highball. In the early 2000s strong Colorado climbers arrived at Sylvan Lake and went on a frenzy of developing some of the hardest problems in the Hills and possibly the Midwest. Colorado strong man Chuck Fryberger sent Homestar V10/11. It has been repeated in the V10 sequence but the dyno to the lip as seen in Friction Addiction has never been repeated. In 2003 a entourage of strong climbers attempted to climb the project to the left of Homestar. After many tries Matt Tschol sent King Of Town which is unconfirmed grade. Originally graded V14 and Tschol had stated, ” If it were in Colorado I feel it would be a V14.” He later stated he graded it V14 to try and get someone else to come climb it. Over the years many people have attempted it but as of 2015 this problem is still unrepeated.