KING OF TOWN BOULDER
This boulder holds the hardest established problem in the Black Hills as of 2016. It also has never seen a full second ascent at the time of this. It came very close in the summer of 2015 when an unknown Minnesotan did a lowish start a move or two in from the original line. It was first climbed by Colorado formally from Minnesota strong man Matt Tschol. He originally graded it V14 and said if it were in Colorado it would be pretty accurate. He later said he graded it this to have someone get on it. Since then for reasons unknown everyone says its V12. Unfortunately, there are a few factors here that don’t make sense. The first being no one in the area boulders V12…yet.. and most parties that attempt it don’t get very far on it. Although, one local who i won’t name but have watched him work it will be taking it down very soon!
King Of Town V12****
(CURRENTLY THE HARDEST ESTABLISHED LINE IN THE HILLS) Obvious Line when passing this boulder. Sds move up the seam on slopers. Get the heel toe lock and move out left. Second “crux” comes for the top out. Colorado local Matt Tschol finally took this down in the early 2000s. Recently saw a repeat from I believe a move or two into it. From a strong Minnesota climber.
First Ascent: Matt Tschol 2003
Chuck Fryberger ended the classic local cult movie ” Friction Addiction” with this FA. Move up on good holds crux is through to the lip however you can.
First Ascent: Chuck Fryberger 2000
KING OF TOWN SOUTH FACE
Only The Good Die Young V8***
Starts in the Cave and works a series of crispy flakes to gain the crack. Transition into the crack and move up. The crack needs to be cleaned and this would be a all star problem!